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Expert Piercing Guide

Septum Piercing: Complete Guide to Pain, Healing, Smell, Sizing & Gold Rings

The nose piercing you can hide — flip it up for work, flip it down for the weekend. But there is more to the septum than most guides cover: the “sweet spot” anatomy that determines whether it hurts a little or a lot, the infamous septum smell that nobody warns you about, and the gauge and sizing decisions that affect how your ring sits, flips, and feels for years.
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By Stepoy
Updated May 2026
16 min read
Key Takeaways
  • The sweet spot is everything. A septum piercing should pass through a thin membrane (columella), not cartilage. When placed correctly: pain 3–4/10, healing 6–8 weeks. When missed: pain 7–8/10, healing 6+ months
  • 16G is the standard gauge for septum. 18G is a secondary option for a finer look. 20G is not standard for septum piercings
  • You can flip it up to hide it — even during healing (if you pick one position and leave it). Smaller rings (8–9mm) are easiest to conceal
  • Yes, it will smell sometimes. “Septum funk” is normal and universal. 14K solid gold reduces it because gold is non-porous and does not harbour bacteria like cheaper metals
  • Not everyone has a sweet spot. Some people’s anatomy makes a comfortable septum piercing impossible. A good piercer will tell you honestly

What is a septum piercing?

A septum piercing passes through the thin membrane between your nostrils — not through the hard cartilage wall that divides your nose. This thin area is called the columella, or the “sweet spot” as piercers call it. When placed correctly through this membrane, the piercing heals faster than almost any other facial piercing (6–8 weeks) because membrane tissue has better blood supply than cartilage.

The septum ring hangs between your nostrils, creating one of the most versatile piercing looks available: bold and visible when worn down, completely invisible when flipped up inside the nose. This hide-ability is the septum’s defining advantage over every other nose piercing. A nostril piercing is always visible; a septum piercing is visible only when you choose.

Septum piercings have a history spanning thousands of years across Indigenous Australian, South Asian, African, and Central American cultures. In contemporary fashion, they gained mainstream popularity through celebrities like Rihanna, Zoë Kravitz, and Jessica Biel, and are now one of the most requested piercings at UK studios.

The sweet spot — anatomy that determines everything

Pinch the bottom of your septum between your thumb and forefinger. Feel around — you will find a thin, flexible area toward the tip of your nose where the tissue gives easily. Behind it, closer to your face, the tissue becomes firm and rigid (that is cartilage). The thin, flexible membrane in front is your sweet spot.

This is the only area that should be pierced. The sweet spot is membrane tissue with reasonable blood supply — it heals in weeks, not months. The cartilage behind it is dense, avascular, and heals like any ear cartilage piercing (6–12+ months). The difference in pain and healing between hitting the sweet spot and missing it is dramatic:

Sweet spot (correct)Through cartilage (incorrect)
Pain3–4/10 — quick, sharp pinch7–8/10 — intense pressure, crunching
Healing6–8 weeks6–12+ months
Sensation“Weird pressure, then eyes water”“Felt like my nose was being broken”
Ongoing comfortComfortable within daysSore for weeks, prone to bumps
Not everyone has a sweet spot
Anatomy varies. Some people have a very small columella, and some have virtually none — their cartilage extends all the way to the tip of the nose. If your piercer cannot locate a sweet spot, they have two options: pierce through cartilage (significantly more painful, much longer healing), or honestly tell you that a septum piercing may not work well for your anatomy. A good piercer will never force a placement just to make a sale. If they spend time feeling for your sweet spot and say they cannot find one, respect that honesty — it is a sign of professionalism.

Deviated septum — can you still get pierced?

A deviated septum is when the cartilage wall between your nostrils is not centred — it leans to one side. It is surprisingly common (some estimates suggest up to 80% of people have some degree of deviation). In most cases, a deviated septum does not prevent you from getting a septum piercing. However:

Mild deviation: An experienced piercer can work around it. The jewellery may sit very slightly off-centre, but this is usually imperceptible.

Significant deviation: The piercing may be noticeably asymmetric — the ring hangs lower on one side. Some people are comfortable with this; others are not. Your piercer should show you the planned angle before piercing so you can decide.

Severe deviation or previous nasal surgery: If you have had rhinoplasty, septoplasty, or a broken nose, consult both your surgeon and your piercer. After rhinoplasty, most surgeons recommend waiting at least 8–10 weeks (some recommend a full year) before getting a septum pierced, because the nasal structure is still healing and soft.

How much does a septum piercing hurt?

3–4 out of 10 when pierced through the sweet spot — comparable to a nostril piercing and significantly less than any cartilage piercing. The actual needle pass takes 1–2 seconds. Most people describe it as a sharp pinch followed by immediate eye-watering (the trigeminal nerve reflex, same as nostril piercings).

What actually hurts the most: Many people report that the clamps (the tool that holds the tissue in position before the needle) are more uncomfortable than the needle itself. The clamping creates a firm pressure on the septum that lasts several seconds while the piercer aligns the needle. The needle pass after that is almost a relief by comparison. Not all piercers use clamps — some use a freehand technique or a receiving tube instead. If you are anxious about the clamps, ask your piercer about their technique beforehand.

After the piercing: Expect a dull ache for a few hours, watery eyes for 5–10 minutes, possible sneezing, and a “stuffy nose” feeling for 1–2 days. Tenderness at the tip of the nose for about a week. By week two, most people report no discomfort unless the ring is accidentally bumped.

PiercingPain
Earlobe2–3/10
Septum (sweet spot) This piercing3–4/10
Nostril3–4/10
Helix4–5/10
Tragus / Conch / Daith5–6/10
Rook6–7/10

Healing timeline

6–8 weeks for initial healing — making the septum one of the fastest-healing piercings. This is because the sweet spot is membrane tissue (not cartilage) with better blood supply. Full maturation of the internal channel takes 3–6 months, but most piercers consider the piercing healed enough for a jewellery change at 6–8 weeks.

PhaseTimelineWhat to expectWhat to do
InflammatoryWeek 1–2Tenderness, swelling between nostrils. Runny nose and sneezing (reflex). Eyes watering on day 1. Nose may feel congested.Saline spray 2x daily (outside and inside both nostrils). Do not flip the ring. Do not touch. Keep one position — up or down.
Early healingWeek 2–4Swelling reduces. Crusty discharge on jewellery (normal dried lymph). Nose feels less congested. Still tender if bumped.Continue saline. You can begin carefully flipping if absolutely necessary (e.g. for work), but minimise how often you switch positions.
IntermediateWeek 4–6Much more comfortable. Flipping up and down is easier and less tender. External healing looks complete.Continue saline 1x daily. You can flip more freely but still be gentle — internal channel is still maturing.
HealedWeek 6–8Most septum piercings are healed enough for a jewellery change. No tenderness, no discharge, no swelling.Visit your piercer to confirm full healing before switching jewellery. First change should ideally be done by your piercer.
Fastest healing nose piercing
The septum heals in 6–8 weeks — dramatically faster than nostril piercings (3–6 months) or any ear cartilage piercing (3–18 months). This speed is entirely because the sweet spot is membrane tissue, not cartilage. Do not let the fast healing make you careless with aftercare — infections can still happen, especially because the piercing is inside your nose where bacteria, mucus, and moisture are constant.

Flipping your septum ring up and down

The ability to hide a septum piercing by flipping the ring up inside the nose is its most unique feature. But there is a right way and a wrong way to do it, especially during healing.

Can you heal a septum flipped up?

Yes. Contrary to popular belief, you can heal your septum piercing in the flipped-up position from day one. The key is not which position you choose — it is how often you change position. Every time you flip the ring, you rotate the jewellery inside the healing channel, disturbing the forming tissue. Healing flipped up permanently is fine. Healing flipped down permanently is fine. Flipping back and forth three times a day is not fine.

When can you start flipping freely?

Week 2–3: You can flip if necessary (e.g. for work), but do it once and leave it. Rinse with warm saline before flipping to soften any crusties and reduce friction.

Week 4+: Flipping becomes easier and less tender. You can flip once or twice a day with minimal irritation.

Week 6–8 (healed): Flip as often as you want. The channel is formed and stable.

Which ring size flips up best?

8–9mm inner diameter rings are the easiest to conceal when flipped up. They sit snugly inside the nostrils without poking out. 10mm works for most people but may show a slight curve at the bottom of the nostrils depending on anatomy. 11–12mm rings are harder to fully conceal and may be visible from certain angles when flipped up.

The septum smell — “septum funk”

This is the topic that no guide warns you about, but every septum piercing owner discovers: sometimes, your septum piercing smells. The smell is often described as cheesy, funky, or similar to body odour. It happens when the jewellery moves and releases trapped buildup from the piercing channel — and because the piercing is inside your nose, the odour goes directly into your nostrils.

Why does it happen?

Your body continuously produces sebum (natural skin oil) and sheds dead skin cells. Inside the piercing channel, these substances accumulate along with bacteria. When the jewellery shifts, it disturbs this buildup and releases the odour. This is completely normal and happens with every piercing — but you only notice it with septum piercings because the source is literally inside your nose.

Key reassurance: Nobody else can smell it. You only notice it because the jewellery is millimetres from your olfactory receptors. It is not a sign of infection (unless accompanied by pain, swelling, and coloured discharge).

How to minimise septum funk

Regular saline cleaning: Even after healing, spray saline 1–2 times per week to flush out buildup from the channel. This is the single most effective prevention.

Remove and soak (once healed): Once your piercing is fully healed, you can periodically remove the ring, soak it in warm water with mild soap for 2 minutes, and gently clean the piercing channel with saline. This removes the accumulated sebum and dead cells.

Use non-porous, high-quality jewellery: This is where material matters enormously. Porous materials (acrylic, low-grade alloys, coated metals) have microscopic surface irregularities where bacteria colonise and thrive. 14K solid gold is non-porous — its smooth, dense surface does not harbour bacteria the way cheap metals do. Customers who switch from surgical steel or plated jewellery to 14K gold consistently report a significant reduction in septum funk.

Septum funk vs infection
Septum funk: Mild cheesy smell when jewellery moves. No pain, no swelling, no discharge. Normal. Solved by cleaning. Infection: Strong, foul smell accompanied by pain, increasing redness, yellow/green discharge, swelling, and possibly fever. Not normal. Requires immediate attention from your piercer or GP. If you are unsure which you are experiencing, see your piercer — they can tell instantly.

Jewellery types for septum piercings

StyleBest forProsCons
Circular barbell (horseshoe)Initial piercing & healingEasy to flip up. Accommodates swelling. Ball ends keep it in place.Balls can unscrew and fall out (check tightness weekly). Visible balls create a less clean look than a seamless ring.
Captive bead ringInitial or healed piercingsSecure — bead held by tension. Full circle look.Bead can be fiddly to insert/remove. May need pliers.
Seamless hoop Most popular upgradeHealed piercings onlyClean, uninterrupted circle of gold. No visible hardware. Comfortable smooth interior. The most refined septum look.Not for initial piercings — seam can rotate into channel during healing. Requires correct diameter.
ClickerHealed piercingsHinged segment clicks open/shut — easiest to insert/remove. Decorative options available.Hinge is a potential weak point. Bulkier than a seamless ring.
RetainerHiding during healing or workStaple-shaped — sits fully inside the nose, invisible.Not decorative. Purely functional for concealment.
Do not heal with a plain seamless ring
A plain seamless ring (with no bead, decoration, or fixed feature on the outside) can rotate freely inside the piercing channel during healing. When the seam rotates into the channel, the small gap between the wire ends can scrape and irritate the forming tissue, causing delayed healing and bumps. A decorative seamless ring (with a fixed bead or design element that prevents full rotation) is fine. But a plain, featureless seamless ring should wait until the piercing is fully healed. This is specifically why horseshoe barbells and captive bead rings are preferred for initial septum jewellery.
[Product photo]
Flip-up friendly
14K Solid Gold Septum Ring
Handmade seamless hoop. 14K solid gold, nickel-free. 16G and 18G. 8mm to 12mm including half sizes. Flips up to hide.
Shop septum rings →

Size guide: gauge & diameter

Gauge (wire thickness)

16G (1.2mm) is the standard gauge for septum piercings. Most professional piercers use a 16G needle for septum piercings because the slightly thicker wire is more stable in the septum, less prone to migration, and provides a more visible, substantial look that suits the septum’s position between the nostrils.

GaugeThicknessNotes
16G Standard1.2mmIndustry standard for septum. Most stable, widest jewellery selection. Used by most piercers as default.
18G1.0mmFiner, more delicate look. Good secondary option. Slightly less jewellery selection than 16G.
How to find your gauge
If you were pierced by a professional, you are most likely 16G. If you are unsure, visit your piercer — they can measure in seconds with a gauge wheel. Do not guess: wearing 18G in a 16G hole means the ring sits loosely and can migrate or irritate. Wearing 16G in an 18G hole will not fit without stretching the tissue.

Diameter (ring size)

Septum ring diameter is measured as inner diameter — the distance from one inner edge of the ring to the other. The right diameter depends on your nose width and how you want the ring to sit:

DiameterLookBest forFlip-up?
8mmTight, snug fit barely visible below noseMinimal, discreet, easy to hideEasiest — fully concealed
9mmClose fit, small visible curveUnderstated everyday wearEasy — conceals well
10mm Most PopularClassic septum ring lookMost face shapes, balanced visible/discreetGood — may show slight curve
11mmRelaxed, bohemian feelWider noses, more presencePossible — may peek out
12mmBold statement hoopMaximum visual impactDifficult — too large to fully conceal

Gold colour options

Classic

Yellow Gold

  • Traditional warm gold tone — the most popular choice for septum rings
  • Complements warm, olive, and medium skin tones
  • Alloyed with silver and copper
  • Versatile — works with both casual and dressed-up looks
Modern

Rose Gold

  • Warm pinkish-gold hue — softer, more feminine aesthetic
  • Flatters fair, cool, and neutral skin tones
  • Higher copper ratio in the alloy
  • Currently trending — pairs beautifully with rose gold ear jewellery

Both colours are 14K solid gold (58.3% pure gold) with nickel-free alloys. Both are equally biocompatible, equally tarnish-proof, and equally suitable for the moist nasal environment. The choice is purely aesthetic.

Aftercare

Septum aftercare is identical to other piercing aftercare with one unique consideration: your piercing is inside your nose, exposed to mucus, bacteria, and constant moisture. This makes consistent cleaning more important, not less.

★ Do

Correct aftercare

  • Spray sterile saline (0.9% NaCl) 2x daily — outside and inside both nostrils
  • Pick one position (up or down) and keep it for the first 2–3 weeks
  • Rinse with warm saline before flipping to loosen crusties and reduce friction
  • Blow nose very gently for the first 2 weeks — light pressure, one side at a time
  • Check horseshoe barbell balls weekly — they can unscrew and fall out
  • Wash hands before any contact with the piercing
✗ Don’t

Common mistakes

  • Flip the ring back and forth multiple times a day during healing
  • Touch, twist, rotate, or play with the jewellery
  • Use TCP, Dettol, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or tea tree oil
  • Submerge in pools, baths, or natural water for at least 6 weeks
  • Blow your nose forcefully in the first 2 weeks
  • Change jewellery before your piercer confirms healing
  • Pull your shirt off over your face without unbuttoning — a common day-one accident that catches the ring
The shirt-snag trap
Pulling a t-shirt or jumper over your head is the septum equivalent of the nostril “towel trap.” The fabric catches the ring and yanks it. For the first few weeks, unbutton shirts before removing, or carefully hold the neckline away from your nose as you pull clothing over your head. This single habit prevents the most common septum accident.
When to see your piercer or GP
Contact your piercer if you notice: spreading redness beyond the piercing area, yellow or green discharge with a smell (clear/white discharge is normal lymph), increasing pain after the first week, the ring appearing crooked or migrated from its original position, or a bump forming that does not improve after 2 weeks of corrected aftercare. See a GP urgently if you develop a fever.

Septum vs nostril: comparison

SeptumNostril
LocationThrough membrane between nostrilsThrough nostril wing (outside)
Pain3–4/10 (if sweet spot hit)3–4/10
Healing6–8 weeks (one of the fastest)3–6 months
Can hide?Yes — flip up inside noseNo — always visible
Standard gauge16G20G (UK)
JewellerySeamless hoop, clicker, horseshoe, retainerHoop, L-stud, corkscrew, bone stud
The smellYes — septum funk is universalLess common (jewellery partly outside the nose)
Scar if retiredHidden inside nose — virtually invisibleSmall dot on nostril — usually fades
UK cost£25–£40£20–£35

Frequently asked questions

Can I flip my septum ring up to hide it?
Yes — this is the septum piercing’s biggest advantage. Push the hoop upward inside the nose and it is completely invisible from the outside. 8–9mm rings are the easiest to conceal; 10mm works for most people; 11–12mm may peek out. You can even heal the piercing flipped up from day one — just avoid flipping back and forth frequently during the healing period.
Does a septum piercing go through cartilage?
No — a properly done septum piercing goes through the thin membrane (columella or “sweet spot”) between the nostrils, not through cartilage. This is why it heals in just 6–8 weeks, compared to 3–18 months for cartilage piercings. If your piercer accidentally hits cartilage, the pain is dramatically worse (7–8/10 vs 3–4/10) and healing takes much longer. This is why choosing an experienced piercer is critical for septum piercings.
Why does my septum piercing smell?
“Septum funk” is caused by the buildup of sebum (natural skin oil), dead skin cells, and bacteria inside the piercing channel. When the jewellery moves, it releases this buildup — and because the piercing is inside your nose, you smell it directly. This is completely normal and universal among septum piercings. Nobody else can smell it. To minimise it: clean with saline 1–2 times per week (even after healing), and use non-porous jewellery like 14K solid gold, which does not harbour bacteria the way porous or coated metals do.
What gauge is standard for a septum piercing?
16G (1.2mm) is the industry standard. Most professional piercers use 16G because it is stable, less prone to migration, and offers the widest jewellery selection. 18G (1.0mm) is a secondary option that gives a finer, more delicate look. Check with your piercer to confirm which gauge they used before ordering new jewellery.
Can I get a septum piercing with a deviated septum?
In most cases, yes. Mild deviation (which the majority of people have to some degree) rarely prevents a septum piercing. An experienced piercer can work around it. With significant deviation, the ring may sit slightly asymmetric — your piercer should demonstrate the likely angle before piercing so you can decide if you are comfortable with it. If your deviation is severe, or if you have had previous nasal surgery, consult both your surgeon and your piercer.
Is 14K gold better than surgical steel for septum?
For the septum specifically, 14K gold has two major advantages: 1) No nickel: Surgical steel contains 10–14% nickel, the most common contact allergen. In the moist nasal environment, nickel exposure is prolonged and can cause persistent irritation. 14K solid gold with a nickel-free alloy eliminates this risk. 2) Non-porous surface: 14K gold’s smooth, dense surface does not harbour the bacteria that cause septum funk, whereas porous or coated metals provide more surface for bacterial colonisation. Many customers report a noticeable reduction in septum smell after switching to solid gold.
How much does a septum piercing cost in the UK?
Expect £25–£40 at a reputable studio, typically including the piercing procedure and basic implant-grade titanium initial jewellery. Some studios offer 14K gold initial jewellery at an additional cost. The piercer’s experience matters enormously for septum piercings — finding the sweet spot correctly is a genuine skill. Do not choose your piercer based on price alone.
Will a septum piercing leave a scar if I remove it?
The piercing hole is inside the nose, so any scar is virtually invisible to the outside world. This is a significant advantage over nostril piercings, which leave a small (usually fading) dot on the outside of the nose. If you retire the piercing, the hole typically closes within a few weeks to a few months depending on how long you wore jewellery.
Can I get a septum piercing after rhinoplasty?
Yes, but timing is critical. After rhinoplasty, the nasal structure is soft, healing, and vulnerable to additional trauma. Most surgeons recommend waiting at least 8–10 weeks; some advise waiting a full year for complete structural healing. After septoplasty (deviated septum surgery), similar wait times apply. Always consult your surgeon before proceeding, and choose a piercer experienced with post-surgical anatomy.
What is the difference between a seamless ring and a clicker?
A seamless ring is a continuous circle of wire with a nearly invisible seam — you twist the ends apart to open it. A clicker has a hinged segment that clicks open and shut. Seamless rings create the cleanest, most minimal look but are slightly harder to insert. Clickers are easier to put in and remove but have a visible hinge mechanism. Both work well for healed septum piercings. Our 14K gold seamless hoops are the most popular septum upgrade for customers who want the purest, simplest circle of gold.
Can I stretch my septum piercing?
Yes — the septum is one of the most commonly stretched facial piercings. Stretching should be done gradually (one gauge at a time, with weeks between each stretch) and under professional guidance. Most people start at 16G and stretch to 14G, 12G, or beyond. Do not attempt to stretch during the healing period. Wait until the piercing is fully healed and established (at least 3–6 months) before beginning any stretching.
My septum ring looks crooked — is it pierced wrong?
Not necessarily. In the first 1–2 weeks, swelling can make the ring appear off-centre even if the placement is perfect. Wait for swelling to fully subside before judging. If it still looks crooked after 3–4 weeks, visit your piercer for an assessment. Possible causes: deviated septum (causes natural asymmetry), incorrect placement (too low, too far back, or through cartilage), or the jewellery sitting at an angle. If the placement was incorrect, it is better to remove, let it heal, and re-pierce correctly than to live with a crooked piercing.
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The septum ring that flips up

14K solid gold • Seamless • 8mm to 12mm • Flips up inside the nose to hide • Handmade to your size

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Stepoy
Piercing Jewellery Specialists
We craft handmade 14K solid gold septum rings in 16G and 18G, from 8mm to 12mm including half sizes. Every recommendation in this guide is based on our experience as jewellery makers, the guidelines published by the Association of Professional Piercers, and feedback from thousands of customers who have made the switch from plated or steel jewellery to solid gold — and noticed the difference immediately.